Urea
Also known as: Carbamide, Urea (humectant/keratolytic)
What It Is
A naturally occurring compound in skin (part of the NMF) that acts as both a humectant and, at higher concentrations, a mild exfoliant (keratolytic).
What It Does
At lower concentrations (2–5%): hydrates and softens skin. At higher concentrations (10–20%+): exfoliates and softens thickened, rough, or callused skin.
Best For
Benefits
- Dual-function: hydrates at low % and exfoliates at high %
- Skin-identical — mimics what skin produces naturally
- Excellent for rough, dry, and thickened skin patches
- Often included in moisturizers for enhanced water retention
When to Be Careful
- At higher concentrations, can be too strong for very sensitive or barrier-compromised skin
- The name puts people off despite its cosmetic safety and effectiveness
Urea became a trending ingredient as skincare communities dove into the science of the Natural Moisturizing Factor. Its combination of humectant and keratolytic properties in one molecule is genuinely useful.
The name causes an automatic negative reaction. Cosmetic-grade urea is synthetic, odorless, and has nothing in common with what the name suggests. It's one of the most well-researched moisturizing ingredients in dermatology.
Depends on the product. In a moisturizer: final hydration step. In a targeted treatment: applied as directed (often evening for higher concentrations).
Dry and dehydrated skin, rough patches, dry heels and elbows, anyone with a compromised NMF. Great in barrier-supportive moisturizers.
At concentrations above 10%, urea can be too strong for reactive or sensitive skin. Higher concentrations are better for localized treatment on tough areas.
Stinging or increased sensitivity — typically only at higher concentrations applied to already-irritated skin.